“Topstitch Like a Pro: Stitch Length, Tension & Thread Mastery”

Sally Ann Flak presented an informative program about Top Stitching to the Upping Your Game neighborhood group in March. She generously shares it with all of you.

1. Tension Troubles?

If the top thread is too tight, loosen the upper thread tension slightly.
If loops appear on the back, increase the upper tension gradually.
Use a test scrap to fine-tune before stitching on your garment.

2. Skipped Stitches?

Use a topstitching needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) with a larger eye.
Ensure the presser foot pressure isn’t too high, which can distort stitches.
Try a walking foot or a Teflon foot for thick fabrics.
Use your hand wheel to walk the machine over bulky areas.

3. Uneven Stitching?

Keep a consistent stitch length (3.0–4.0 mm) for smooth, professional results.
Use a stitch guide foot or a marking tool to maintain even spacing.
Stitch slow and steady—rushing can lead to wobbly lines.
Use a hump jumper to get over thick seams.
Raise and lower the presser foot often to even out material under the foot.

Choose your Topstitching Thread Carefully!

1. Heavy-Duty Topstitching Thread (Best for bold, visible stitches)

Gutermann Topstitching Thread – Strong, slightly thicker, smooth finish.
Jeans Stitch Thread (Gutermann) – Specifically made for denim, extra-strong and thick
Wawak- Perform X topstitching thread for Jeans

2. Tex 30-40 Heavyweight Polyester Thread (Best for durability and definition)

A&E T-40 Tex Heavyweight Polyester Thread – Great for industrial and home sewing machines.
Mettler Polyester Heavy Duty – Smooth, high-quality polyester thread that stitches cleanly.

3. 100% Cotton or Cotton-Wrapped Polyester Thread (For a more traditional look, but less durable)

Aurifil Cotton Thread– 100% cotton 30/40 weight for a strong and softer look
Gutermann Cotton Topstitching Thread – Pure cotton for a vintage finish.
Coats & Clark Dual Duty Heavy Thread – Cotton-wrapped polyester for strength and a softer look.

Needles… Choose the best and forget the rest!

Best Needles for Topstitching Denim
Topstitching Needle (90/14 or 100/16) – Large eye and deep groove help prevent thread breakage and ensure smooth stitching with heavy topstitching thread.
Denim/Jeans Needle (90/14 or 100/16) – Strong shaft and sharp point pierce thick denim layers without bending or breaking.
Microtex (Sharp) Needle (80/12 or 90/14) – Best for lightweight denim or precise topstitching with finer thread.
Twin Needle for Topstitching (4.0/100 or 6.0/100) – Creates parallel, evenly spaced stitches for a professional, double-stitched denim look.
- Use with two spools of topstitching thread on top.
- Keep regular-weight polyester (50 wt.) in the bobbin to avoid tension issues.
- Stitch slowly to prevent skipped stitches and thread breakage.

Needle & Thread Pairing Guide for Denim Topstitching!

Thread Type	Thread Weight (wt)	Needle size
Heavy Topstitching Thread	30wt	100/16 or 110/18 Topstitching or Jeans needle
Standard Topstitching Thread	40wt	90/14 or 100/16 Topstitching Needle
All purpose Polyester Thread or Cotton Thread	50wt	80/12 or 90/14 Microtex Needle
Denim Specific Thread	40wt – 50wt	90/14 or 100/16 Jeans/Denim Needles
2 spools of Standard Topstitching Thread	40wt	4.0/100 or 6.0/100 Twin Needle

✅ Thicker thread requires a larger needle to prevent shredding.

✅ Use polyester or polyester-wrapped thread for durability on denim.

✅ Test stitch on scrap fabric before sewing on your final piece.

Topstitching on denim can indeed lead to tension issues, as denim is thick and sometimes tricky to handle. Here are some common problems and their solutions to achieve flawless topstitching:

Common Tension Issues and Fixes

Uneven or Skipped Stitches
- Cause: Inconsistent tension due to the fabric’s thickness or needle mismatch.
- Fix: Use a topstitching needle (size 90/14 or 100/16 for denim) with a sharp point. Adjust the upper thread tension slightly tighter than usual. Test on a scrap piece first.
Puckering Along the Seam
- Cause: Overly tight upper thread tension or an incorrect presser foot.
- Fix: Loosen the upper thread tension. Consider using a walking foot or a denim presser foot to help feed the fabric evenly.
Thread Breaking
- Cause: Incorrect thread type or too-tight tension.
- Fix: Use a heavy-duty thread designed for topstitching. Ensure your bobbin thread is also strong, and loosen both the top and bobbin tensions slightly.
Needle Dragging or Breaking
- Cause: The needle struggles through multiple layers or encounters resistance.
- Fix: Use a fresh, sharp topstitching needle and slow your stitching speed to reduce strain on the needle.
Stitch Imbalance (Top vs. Bottom)
- Cause: Tension isn’t balanced between the top and bobbin threads.
- Fix: Re-thread your machine, ensuring the thread is correctly seated in the tension discs. Adjust the tension dial until the stitches are balanced.
Thick Seams Causing Jamming
- Cause: Sewing across bulky layers, especially seams.
- Fix: Use a hump jumper or a folded piece of fabric behind the presser foot to maintain level stitching. Alternatively, trim seam allowances to reduce bulk.

General Tips for Success

Always test your settings on a denim scrap before starting on your actual project.
Use a longer stitch length (3.0–4.0 mm) for topstitching to create bold, professional-looking stitches.
Keep your machine well-maintained, with a clean bobbin case and oiled mechanisms for smooth operation.

Thread Weight Vs Tex

Thread weight and Tex are two different systems used to measure and describe the thickness of a thread. They serve the same purpose but use different methods of calculation. Here’s a breakdown:

Thread Weight

Definition: Measures how much length of thread is required to weigh one gram.
System: Higher numbers mean thinner threads, and lower numbers mean thicker threads (counterintuitive!). For example, a 50-weight thread is thinner than a 30-weight thread.
Common Usage: Often used in sewing, embroidery, and quilting industries.

Tex (Textile Numbering System)

Definition: Measures the weight of 1,000 meters of thread in grams.
System: Higher numbers indicate thicker threads. For example, a thread with a Tex value of 30 is thinner than a thread with a Tex value of 50.
Common Usage: Widely used internationally in industrial and textile manufacturing.

Comparison

Thread Weight	TEX	Thickness
100	10	Very thin (fine)
50	25	Medium (all purpose)
30	50	Thick ( topstitching)

Which to Use?

Thread Weight is more common in consumer sewing contexts, so you’ll often see it on spools in your sewing studio.
Tex provides a more universal, consistent measurement and is widely adopted in industrial settings.

That’s it!! That’s all!!“Topstitch Like a Pro: Stitch Length, Tension & Thread Mastery”